Sushi includes vinegar-seasoned rice combined with fish, egg or vegetables, as well as older forms made by fermenting fish with rice. Hand-shaped portions, rolls, moulded blocks and rice-filled tofu pouches use the ingredients in different ways.
01
From fermentation to vinegared rice
Rice in a fermentation process
In long-matured honnare sushi, salted fish ferments with cooked rice. An Ishikawa fisheries research report describes the rice breaking down during lactic fermentation. After maturation, the fish is eaten and the rice discarded.
Shorter maturation: namanare
The report links Muromachi-period namanare with a shorter fermentation that left both fish and rice ready to eat. Here the rice serves as food as well as a fermentation medium; the name refers to the shorter maturation.
Vinegar and hayazushi
Form
Souring
Rice
Honnare
Fermentation
Not eaten
Namanare
Fermentation
Eaten
Hayazushi
Vinegar
Eaten
Hayazushi seasons rice with vinegar, reducing the wait for fermentation to produce sourness. MAFF places this change around the Genroku period, before the early-nineteenth-century development of Edo nigiri. Vinegar-seasoned rice provides a quicker route than long-matured narezushi.
02
Edo nigiri and other forms
Nigiri emerges in Edo
Several accounts place the beginnings of nigiri in early-nineteenth-century Edo. Edo-Tokyo Museum’s reference answer brings together traditions associated with Matsunozushi and Hanaya Yohei, among others. Nigiri is a hand-shaped portion of rice topped with another ingredient.
Shaping sushi and keeping ingredients cool
Cooked-shrimp and egg nigiri, illustrated.Illustrated cut rolls with a filling.Fill the mould with rice and toppings.Press with the fitted lid.Remove from the mould and cut.
Illustrated sequence for pressing egg-topped sushi in a mould.
Nigiri uses hand-shaped rice portions; rolls enclose rice and fillings; pressed sushi takes shape in a mould; chirashi spreads ingredients over rice. Inari encloses rice in fried tofu pouches. MAFF traces these forms through regional developments and links the greater use of raw fish to advances in ice-making in Meiji. Regional fermented traditions also continued.
Osaka’s hako-zushi is a pressed form: prepared toppings and sushi rice are layered in a wooden mould, pressed with a lid, then cut into bite-sized pieces.
Making a rice-filled pouch
Aichi aburage-zushi, showing the rice filling. MAFF.
MAFF’s Aichi recipe opens halved fried tofu into pockets, simmers them in seasoning and lets them cool. The cook packs sushi rice inside and shapes the filled pouches. Other modern sushi examples include Mizkan’s nigiri topped with boiled shrimp or thick omelette.
Check your understanding
Must sushi contain raw fish?
No. Cooked ingredients, egg and vegetables can also be used. Sashimi on its own is not sushi.
Does namanare mean raw-fish sushi?
No. It describes a shorter-matured fermented form in which both fish and rice can be eaten.
Did each new form replace every earlier one?
No. Regional fermented forms continued alongside vinegar-seasoned and shaped forms.