Sukiyaki: a sweet-soy pot with several cooking styles
すき焼き
Sukiyaki cooks meat with vegetables, tofu and other ingredients in a shallow pan, using a sweet and savoury soy-based seasoning. Thinly sliced beef is familiar, though pork and chicken versions also occur. Some methods begin with a prepared sauce; others season meat as it sears. The cooking order matters as much as the regional label.
Warishita is a prepared seasoning mixture, with varying recipes.
Kantō and Kansai styles overlap in restaurants and homes.
The beef pots called gyūnabe connect the dish to late Edo and Meiji food history.
01
What goes into the pan
Meat and its companions
The Agriculture Ministry’s Tokyo recipe combines beef with Japanese long onion (negi), chrysanthemum greens, Chinese cabbage, grilled tofu and shirataki, thin konnyaku noodles. The mixture varies by household and region; this published example is not a compulsory ingredient list.
The finished pot in Kikkoman’s 2025 cooking example, with meat, negi, tofu and other ingredients; the original photograph trims both sides of the rim.
Seasoning mixed in advance
Warishita means a prepared seasoning liquid. Soy sauce, sugar and sake provide a common base; the Tokyo recipe also includes mirin and dashi. Mixing the sauce beforehand differs from adding sugar and soy sauce directly while cooking the meat.
A separate dipping bowl
The Tokyo entry describes dipping cooked pieces into beaten egg in a separate bowl. The egg is a dip rather than the liquid in which the whole pan cooks. It belongs to this described serving style, rather than defining every possible sukiyaki.
02
Compare the sequence as well as the region
Start with the sauce
In the Ministry’s published Tokyo home recipe, the prepared warishita goes into the pan first. Once it boils, meat, vegetables and tofu are added to cook together. The ingredients therefore enter an already seasoned liquid.
Prepare warishitaMix soy sauce, sugar and other seasonings
Add to the potKikkoman’s example adds it after meat and negi have browned
SimmerCook with the other ingredients
Kikkoman’s simmering example at the stage of adding premixed warishita.
Start with the meat
Kyoto Prefecture describes cooking meat and accompanying ingredients to a sweet-soy flavour. A sequence commonly labelled Kansai-style sears meat first, seasons it with sugar and soy sauce, and serves that meat before further ingredients are cooked.
Sear meatBegin with meat in the pan
Season directlyThis method adds sugar and soy sauce separately
Add the other ingredientsContinue with the example’s other ingredients
The same manufacturer’s searing example: soy sauce poured directly after the meat; adding sugar is not visible in this photograph.
The labels are not strict borders
The Tokyo entry also describes established restaurants searing beef before adding other ingredients and seasonings. Kikkoman’s 2024 survey likewise defined one Kantō method with a brief sear before warishita. The label needs to be read alongside the cooking sequence it describes.
How shabu-shabu differs
The Ministry’s washoku booklet describes shabu-shabu as individual, very thin meat slices swished in boiling dashi, then dipped in ponzu or sesame sauce. Sukiyaki cooks its ingredients with sweet-soy seasoning in the pan. Thin slices alone do not make the two dishes equivalent.
03
From earlier names to beef pots
Fish dishes behind a familiar name
The Ministry’s Tokyo account describes Edo-period Kansai fish and shellfish dishes called uosuki and okisuki. It connects one explanation of the name to cooking on a plough blade. Those ingredients and methods differ from familiar beef sukiyaki; an etymological account does not establish the invention of the modern dish.
Beef pots in late Edo and Meiji Japan
Kyoto Prefecture places the emergence of gyūnabe, beef pots, in the late Edo period. The Ministry’s Meiji food history describes beef seasoned with familiar soy sauce or miso and eaten with chopsticks, alongside increasing numbers of beef shops and restaurants. This expansion does not establish that nobody had eaten beef earlier.
An 1871–1872 publishing record
Kanagaki Robun’s Aguranabe concerns Meiji beef-pot restaurants. The National Institute for Japanese Language and Linguistics catalogues a first part with an 1871 preface and two second-part volumes published in 1871–1872. The work and its bibliography place beef pots within the period’s urban food and publishing culture.
Names after the 1923 earthquake
The Tokyo entry links the destruction of beef-pot restaurants in the Great Kantō Earthquake to the subsequent spread of the Kansai name sukiyaki in the region. Comparing recipes still requires attention to seasoning and cooking order. Gyūnabe remains a term readers encounter in late Edo and Meiji food records.
Prepared seasoning becomes a retail product
Ebara’s own product history dates a predecessor of its bottled sukiyaki sauce to 1969, adapting the restaurant practice of prepared warishita for convenient use. A 300-millilitre bottle and renewed promotion followed in 1981; a sweeter, more dashi-forward version for Kansai appeared in 1987. These are specific changes in one company’s product and distribution.
1969Ebara launches its predecessor bottled seasoning
1981A 300 ml bottle and promotion
1987A product adjustment aimed at Kansai preferences
04
Households and restaurants
A gathering meal and an everyday option
Kikkoman’s 2024 online survey of 1,158 members recorded year-end gatherings, weekends and weekdays among the occasions for eating sukiyaki. Responses included pork and chicken as well as beef. Homemade warishita, retail sauce and direct seasoning coexist alongside restaurants’ own methods. These are multiple-choice answers from a defined member sample, rather than mutually exclusive national categories.
Check your understanding
What is warishita?
A seasoning mixture prepared before cooking. Soy sauce, sugar and sake form a common base, with additions such as mirin or dashi depending on the recipe.
Does Kantō-style always avoid searing the meat?
No. The Tokyo account and some definitions of Kantō-style include searing meat before adding sauce or further ingredients.
Is meat thickness the only difference from shabu-shabu?
No. Compare cooking in a sweet-soy mixture with swishing slices in dashi, and note where the dipping sauce is used.
Does the Aguranabe catalogue establish an invention date of 1871?
No. It dates a publication associated with beef-pot culture, not the invention of the entire dish.
What does bottled warishita supply?
It supplies the seasoning mixture already prepared, with recipes varying between products.