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Miso ramen: one seasoning, many bowls

味噌ラーメン

Miso ramen takes its name from miso in the soup seasoning. Postwar Sapporo helped make the style widely known, but the name does not prescribe a single stock, noodle or topping, and it is not limited to Sapporo.

Named for
Miso seasoning
Key setting
Postwar Sapporo
Varies by bowl
Stock, noodles, oil and toppings

Separate seasoning from the rest of the bowl

Miso does not identify the stock

Ramen’s concentrated seasoning is often called tare. Using miso in it does not by itself specify whether the stock contains pork, chicken or seafood. Noodles, aromatic oil and toppings are further choices, rather than ingredients fixed by the word miso.

Miso supplies seasoning
Miso supplies seasoning
Stock and seasoning are separate components
Stock and seasoning are separate components

Sapporo developed a recognizable noodle

Nishiyama Seimen’s collaboration with Aji no Sanpei produced yellow, medium-thick, curly noodles. Sapporo’s tourism interview describes the higher-water dough and firm texture involved. That is a regional and manufacturer’s practice, not a requirement that every miso ramen use an identical noodle.

An illustrative Sapporo-style curly noodle
An illustrative Sapporo-style curly noodle

Why the noodle had to change

In Nishiyama’s account, thin straight noodles softened while customers took time over the hot soup. The new noodle was intended to give them longer to eat. Curves also helped it stay on the chopsticks. But noodles that had begun to dry could break when crimped, so the maker increased the water content to make the dough more pliable. Thickness, curl and water content were related design choices, beyond the familiar yellow appearance.

Seasoning can be heated with the toppings

For home preparation, a Nishiyama representative in Sapporo’s tourism interview recommends frying the supplied seasoning with the toppings before adding hot water. A Dosanko representative instead describes dissolving miso in the soup and lightly cooking bean sprouts and minced meat as toppings. Preparation order varies; corn and butter are optional additions.

Follow one restaurant’s wok process

Sapporo’s Sumire, founded in 1964, developed a rich miso style. When the Ramen Museum recreated its 1994 version in 2024, it described this sequence: heat raw miso in a wok; stir-fry minced meat, garlic, onion and bean sprouts at high heat; then combine them with stock made from pork bones, seafood and vegetables. Matured thick curly noodles accompany the soup, with toppings including roast pork, spring onion and fresh ginger.

Seasoning, fried ingredients and stock meet in the wok, while the noodles are a further coordinated choice. The photograph shows the historical-version recreation. It is neither a universal Sapporo recipe nor a photograph taken in 1994.

The Ramen Museum’s 2024 recreation of Sumire 1994, with visible pork, spring onion, ginger and curly noodles. Museum promotional photograph.
The Ramen Museum’s 2024 recreation of Sumire 1994, with visible pork, spring onion, ginger and curly noodles. Museum promotional photograph. Source

How the style travelled

It grew within an existing noodle trade

Sapporo had Chinese-style noodle businesses before the war and a developing trade in stalls and noodle shops afterward. Nishiyama’s chronology dates Morito Ōmiya’s opening of Aji no Sanpei to 1950. Miso ramen developed through this setting of shops, noodle makers and customers.

The mid-1950s brought experiments in soup and noodles

Ōmiya and Takayuki Nishiyama worked on noodles suited to the developing soup. Nishiyama’s chronology lists a miso menu in 1954; other accounts use 1955. The dating differs, while both place the development in the mid-1950s.

Morito Ōmiya (left) and Takayuki Nishiyama, around 1953; the source credits historical photographs to Nishiyama Seimen.
Morito Ōmiya (left) and Takayuki Nishiyama, around 1953; the source credits historical photographs to Nishiyama Seimen.Source

New channels carried the flavour beyond the shop

Hokkaido product fairs brought Sapporo miso ramen to more cities in the 1960s. Sanyo Foods introduced packaged Sapporo Ichiban Miso Ramen in 1968, adding a household instant-noodle route. A restaurant bowl and a packaged product are different forms of production, even when their names invoke the same city. Dosanko, founded in 1967, spread miso ramen through franchising. In a family interview, the founder’s son describes standardized soup and topping preparation and training for operators, providing another route for expansion.

Aged noodles and gift packs serve different settings

Nishiyama’s chronology records the growth of packaged souvenir and gift ramen around the 1980s. Shops can also shape the noodles they receive. Sapporo’s tourism interview describes some restaurants resting delivered noodles for several days to mature them, choosing their condition for the clientele and soup. Production, storage and cooking therefore all affect the result.

A regional name and a flavour name can overlap

Akayu offers a different combination

Ryushanhai in Akayu, Yamagata, dates its spicy-miso ramen to 1960. The Ramen Museum describes dried-sardine flavour in the soup, thick hand-worked noodles and a red mound of spicy miso. Dissolving that mound gradually changes the heat of the soup.

Ryushanhai’s Akayu spicy-miso ramen, with a red mound of spicy miso at the centre. Shinyokohama Ramen Museum photograph.
Ryushanhai’s Akayu spicy-miso ramen, with a red mound of spicy miso at the centre. Shinyokohama Ramen Museum photograph. Source

Read more than the place name

Miso classifies seasoning; Sapporo and Akayu identify regional or shop histories. The categories overlap without being identical: Sapporo also serves salt and soy-sauce styles, and miso ramen is made elsewhere. Seasoning, stock and noodles each tell a different part of the story.

Check your understanding

What gives miso ramen its name?

Miso in the soup seasoning.

Does the name require pork-bone stock?

No. The stock can vary.

Is all Sapporo ramen miso ramen?

No. Salt and soy-sauce styles also exist.

When did Sanyo launch packaged Sapporo Ichiban Miso Ramen?

In 1968.

What does dissolving Ryushanhai’s red miso mound change?

The soup’s spicy heat.

Why were curl and water content adjusted together?

Curl helps grip, while more water makes the dough pliable enough to crimp without breaking.

How do miso and stock meet in the recreated Sumire 1994 process?

Miso is heated and the meat and vegetables fried before stock is added.

Sources and image references
  1. Nishiyama Seimen: Sapporo ramen chronology
  2. Sapporo tourism: Nishiyama Seimen and miso ramen
  3. Wikipedia: 味噌ラーメン
  4. Wikipedia: 味噌ラーメン
  5. Sanyo Foods: Company history
  6. Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum: Ryushanhai
  7. Dosanko founding family interview,2021
  8. 新横滨拉面博物馆:すみれ1994,2024年重现版本

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