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Asahikawa ramen: two stocks and a city of shops

旭川ラーメン

Asahikawa ramen is a regional style from inland Hokkaidō. Soy-sauce seasoning, combined animal and seafood stocks, relatively low-hydration noodles and oil on the soup are common features. Individual shops retain different recipes.

Curl describes noodle shape
Curl describes noodle shape
Place
Asahikawa, Hokkaidō
Common soup
Animal and seafood stocks with soy seasoning
Noodles
Often curly and relatively low in hydration

Separate the stock, seasoning and noodles

Double soup describes a combination of stocks

An animal stock, often based on pork bones, can be combined with stock from ingredients such as dried fish, bonito flakes and kelp. This is the double-soup principle. Soy sauce concerns seasoning, a separate question from what makes the stock; shōyu ramen is not simply soy sauce diluted with water.

Hydration describes how the noodles are made

Low hydration means that comparatively little water is added to flour during noodle-making. It does not describe the amount of soup left in a bowl. Curl describes shape. The city’s account identifies both as familiar features, but curls alone cannot establish where a noodle was made.

An oil layer in a cold-city account

Asahikawa’s municipal account connects a surface layer of lard with keeping soup warm in the cold climate. Oil also contributes to the bowl’s flavour. Amounts and methods vary by shop, so an account of a typical feature should not become a compulsory recipe.

A representative flavour is not the only one

Soy-sauce ramen is strongly associated with Asahikawa, while shops also make salt- and miso-seasoned versions. Comparing Asahikawa with Sapporo’s miso and Hakodate’s salt ramen introduces regional associations; it does not exclude other flavours from those cities.

Hachiya: stock, oil and noodles in one bowl

Hachiya provides a named example. The Ramen Museum’s 2023 account describes separate stocks of dried horse mackerel and pork bones, blended before serving with browned lard and low-hydration curled noodles. Stock, surface oil and noodles play different roles. This shop’s method is one example within the regional style.

Soup-surface detail in the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum’s Hachiya account, showing the surface oil.
Soup-surface detail in the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum’s Hachiya account, showing the surface oil.Source

Hydration and curl describe different relationships

The Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum describes low-hydration noodles as absorbing soup readily, while their curls help soup cling to them. One concerns water added during noodle-making; the other concerns shape. Both affect how noodle and soup are eaten together. Neither can be inferred from the other, and a regional description does not fix one hydration percentage for every shop.

Why Hachiya cooks its stocks separately

The museum’s 2023 Hachiya account explains that dried horse-mackerel stock and pork-bone stock develop best over different cooking times. They are therefore prepared separately and blended later. Separate preparation permits control of each component before combining them, rather than merely naming two ingredients cooked in one pot.

Browned lard is a separate preparation

Hachiya’s browned lard is prepared separately by heating lard with pork fat and fish flakes such as bonito, then straining it. This aromatic oil is distinct from the two stocks. Fish can contribute to a water-based stock and also to flavouring the oil. Double soup does not mean a bowl contains only two ingredients, nor does a separately prepared oil become a third stock.

The museum’s photograph of Hachiya’s separate browned-lard preparation.
The museum’s photograph of Hachiya’s separate browned-lard preparation.Source

Santouka: salt seasoning does not mean clear stock

Santouka’s company history describes its 1988 Asahikawa opening as a nine-seat shop serving only shio ramen. Its signature bowl combines white pork-bone soup with a small pickled plum, providing a named contrast with Hachiya’s soy-seasoned bowl and browned lard. Salt and soy sauce identify seasoning, whereas clarity or cloudiness concerns the stock and preparation: shio does not automatically mean a clear broth.

Santouka also describes avoiding reboiling its finished pork stock to preserve the aroma and texture it seeks. That is the shop’s own handling method, not a common temperature rule for the whole region.

Shio ramen in Santouka’s official menu, with a small plum on the cloudy soup.
Shio ramen in Santouka’s official menu, with a small plum on the cloudy soup.Source

From early menus to a regional name

Ramen pictured in Asahikawa’s 2017 municipal feature, with dark soup, curly noodles, spring onion, bamboo shoots and pork. This is not an early-postwar photograph.
Ramen pictured in Asahikawa’s 2017 municipal feature, with dark soup, curly noodles, spring onion, bamboo shoots and pork. This is not an early-postwar photograph.Source

The first menus have more than one account

The city’s 2017 feature traces ramen on local menus to early Shōwa, presenting both a soba-shop account and a Chinese-restaurant account. It does not identify a single securely established inventor. Those alternatives should remain alternatives.

A postwar form around 1947

The museum’s Hachiya history starts with a honey ice-cream shop in 1946, followed by ramen in 1947; its regional overview identifies both Hachiya and Aoba as postwar shops dating to 1947. Asahikawa’s 2017 feature describes local pig farming, dried-fish distribution and brewing as conditions that made pork bones, seafood and soy sauce available together. Those conditions and several businesses’ practices helped shape the postwar style rather than identifying a single established inventor.

The regional name travelled in the 1990s

Asahikawa’s 2017 feature records a tasting-based map made by Junior Chamber members in 1989 and a municipal and chamber-of-commerce promotion at Kōshien stadium in 1992. The ramen village opened in 1996, bringing several shops into one visitor facility. An established Asahikawa shop entered the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum in 1997, followed by a ramen festival at the city’s summer festivities in 1998. Maps, outside promotion, multi-shop facilities and festivals each made the food accessible in a different way. Hachiya’s own museum entry was in 1999, a separate event from the unnamed shop in the municipal 1997 account.

A regional name leaves room for different bowls

The city’s 2017 feature describes both shops continuing established flavours and shops pursuing their own approach. Asahikawa ramen identifies a regional family of bowls, while stocks, seasoning, noodles and toppings still vary between businesses.

Noodles move through a maker’s network

The museum’s Hachiya history connects these noodles with 加藤枝直 and his brother 加藤熊彦, and describes their spread to other Asahikawa shops through the brother’s Kato Ramen company. A regional style thus travels through noodle production and supply relationships as well as individual restaurants. A shop’s experiment can reach other bowls through a maker’s network.

An Aoba-branded product extends the network

Fujiwara Seimen sells a two-serving fresh-noodle product bearing Aoba’s name and soy-sauce flavour. Its page introduces the shop’s 1947 founding, describes soup flavours involving pork bones, chicken carcasses, fish flakes and kelp, and lists ingredients for the noodles and soup separately. Packaged goods carry a shop name and regional flavour into homes, providing a different encounter from eating freshly prepared ramen at a visitor facility.

How do competing shops work together?

Asahikawa’s 2017 feature explains that local ramen shops formed Ramen no Kai Asahikawa in 1997. They retained their own closely held methods and competed through distinct flavours, while also exchanging information to improve their ramen. Shared work organized outward-facing activities: member shops cooked fresh noodles together at the summer and winter festivals and served ramen at events elsewhere.

The collaboration also involved a product-development process. The 2017 report describes the association working with Toyo Suisan on a cup-noodle product, repeatedly tasting and adjusting the flavour before national sale. Participants jointly selected the taste to present, rather than merely putting a place-name on a package.

The shop association was distinct from the citizens’ Asahikawa Ramen Bars group, founded in 1995. After visiting facilities including the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum, its members approached local businesses with the idea of a visitor facility, helping bring about the ramen village in 1996. Diners’ initiatives, shops’ cooking and companies’ operation of a facility connected through different organizations.

Check your understanding

How do low hydration and curl affect the noodle–soup relationship differently?

Low-hydration noodles absorb soup readily, while curls help it cling; one concerns added water, the other shape.

Why does Hachiya prepare two stocks before blending?

The fish and pork stocks need different cooking times, so each is controlled before blending.

How is its browned lard made, and how does it relate to double soup?

Lard, pork fat and fish flakes are browned and strained; the oil is a separate aromatic component, not a third stock.

How does noodle manufacturing help a shop’s noodles become regional?

Kato Ramen’s supply network brought the noodles to other local shops.

What do 1946 and 1947 identify in Hachiya’s history?

The ice-cream shop opened in 1946 and became a ramen shop in 1947.

How does Santouka’s white shio soup distinguish stock from seasoning?

Salt identifies seasoning; cloudy pork stock identifies a different aspect of preparation.

How did competing shops cooperate, and what did the citizens’ group contribute?

Shops kept their methods while exchanging information, serving jointly and developing a product through repeated tasting; the citizens’ group visited facilities and approached local firms to help create the ramen village.

How does the Aoba-branded packaged product offer a different channel from a restaurant visit?

A noodle producer packages noodles and soup for preparation at home, carrying the shop name and regional flavour beyond an on-site meal.

Sources and image references
  1. Asahikawa City: Ramen Feature (2017)
  2. Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum: Asahikawa Ramen
  3. Wikipedia (Japanese): 旭川ラーメン
  4. Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum: Hachiya’s history and ramen
  5. Santouka: company history
  6. Santouka: soup and bowl
  7. Fujiwara Seimen: Aoba-branded fresh ramen product
  8. Ramen pictured in Asahikawa’s 2017 municipal feature, with dark soup, curly noodles, spring onion, bamboo shoots and pork. This is not an early-postwar photograph.
  9. Shio ramen in Santouka’s official menu, with a small plum on the cloudy soup.

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