JAPANESE CULTURE, EXPLAINED

Netsuke: a small carving with a fastening job

根付

A netsuke secures a container or pouch suspended from an obi. Its cord holes and compact carving combine a fastening function with a small work viewed from several sides.

01

How the suspension works

Follow the cord

Netsuke above the obi; cord and inrō below.
Netsuke above the obi; inrō below, illustrated.

The fastening function identifies a netsuke more precisely than size alone. A cord connects it to the item suspended below the sash. The position of its cord holes, or himotoshi, affects how the assembly sits. The inrō is the container; the netsuke is the fastening component. They can be separate works combined in use. A sliding ojime bead on the cord opens or closes the container.

Why a rounded shape matters

Illustrated compact rabbit form with cord holes; not a copy of a historical object.
Illustrated compact rabbit form with cord holes; not a copy of a historical object.
Two separate round cord holes on a smooth wooden netsuke.
Two cord holes on the back of a netsuke, illustrated.

A compact form with few projecting parts is less likely to catch on clothing. On a sculptural netsuke, the back, underside and sides can all carry carving, with cord holes incorporated into the form. These surfaces have a practical role as well as offering additional views of the subject.

Several forms of netsuke

A flattened round netsuke with a shallow domed face and rounded edge.
A flattened round manju netsuke, illustrated.
A circular wooden rim surrounding an inset round metal lid.
Kagamibuta: a round body with an inset metal lid, illustrated.

Katabori netsuke model figures, animals and other subjects in the round. Manjū forms resemble a rounded disc and can carry relief or lacquer decoration. A kagamibuta fits a metal lid into a rounded body. Mask, box and openwork forms provide further variations.

02

Making, wearing and collecting

One making tradition: Ise boxwood

A wood block before carving, illustrated.
A wood block before carving, illustrated.
Carving tools and shavings illustrate material being removed.
Carving tools and shavings illustrate material being removed.

A process supplied by the Ise Netsuke Carving Museum begins with naturally dried boxwood, cut into a block and given a drawn design. Successive carving stages establish and refine the shape, followed by smoothing, colouring and dry polishing with cloth. This is a specific wood-carving process; a metal lid or lacquer surface involves other work.

Wearing, collecting and making today

Kyoto Seishu Netsuke Art Museum places the craft’s development around the Genroku period within townspeople’s culture. Later changes in dress and the trade in works for overseas collectors changed how netsuke circulated. Contemporary makers in Japan and elsewhere continue to work with their characteristic compact forms and cord holes while exploring new subjects.

Check your understanding

Is the netsuke the inro container?

No. It is the fastening component connected to the suspended container by a cord.

Why examine the underside?

Its shape and cord holes contribute to how the object hangs and how it can be viewed.

Are all netsuke ivory carvings?

No. Woods, metalwork and lacquered forms provide other material and structural examples.

Sources and images
  1. Kyoto Seishu Netsuke Art Museum: netsuke
  2. Wikipedia: netsuke
  3. Ise Netsuke Carving Museum: boxwood carving
  4. Ashmolean Museum: netsuke, cords and compact forms
  5. Metropolitan Museum of Art: netsuke formats and collecting history