Gion’s yamahoko procession: building, turning and transmitting
祇園祭 山鉾巡行
The yamahoko procession is the movement of neighbourhood-maintained yama and hoko floats through Kyoto during the Gion Festival. Related to Yasaka Shrine’s mikoshi processions, it has its own construction, decoration, music and order of passage.
Scope
Float events within the Gion Festival
Usual dates
Saki-matsuri 17 July; Ato-matsuri 24 July
Turning
Large floats turn through tsuji-mawashi
What makes the procession
Floats and mikoshi
Neighbourhoods maintain and parade the floats, while mikoshi carry the shrine’s deities. The two float processions relate to the deities’ outward and return journeys. A float and the corresponding portable shrine have distinct roles. In the festival’s religious explanation, the floats gather and dispel harmful epidemic spirits, purifying the streets before the deities’ journey.
Procession photograph in the Agency for Cultural Affairs’ 2009 briefing, illustrating departure through the rope-cutting stage.Source
Yama, hoko and exceptions
Hoko commonly have tall finials, while yama often carry a tree and figures. Yet yama are not uniformly small: wheeled hikiyama can be large. Boat-shaped floats introduce further forms, so size alone is insufficient for identification. The city guide describes large hoko rising about 25 metres to their finials, with the heaviest weighing around 12 tonnes.
Textiles and represented stories
Textiles, metal fittings and figures represent themes drawn from Chinese and Japanese stories. During the preceding yoiyama period, some furnishings are displayed at neighbourhood meeting houses for closer observation. Each neighbourhood manages its particular display and procession arrangement. Kanko Hoko, for example, draws on Lord Mengchang’s escape through Hangu Pass with the aid of a rooster’s call, displaying his figure and a pair of chickens.
Drawing lots and fixed positions
Lots determine part of the order, with specified floats exempt from the draw. Naginata Hoko normally leads the first procession and carries a living chigo; this arrangement does not apply to every float. Kuji-aratame checks the order during passage.
Flute, drums and gongs
Hayashi combines flutes, drums and gongs, popularly evoked as konchikichin. The musicians help give the procession its rhythm as well as its sound. Particular neighbourhood groups maintain their repertories and training.
A transverse flute is one instrument in the hayashi
Assembling and moving large floats
Rope-lashed construction
Large floats are reassembled from components using rope-lashing techniques called nawa-garami. They are dismantled after the procession and their components and furnishings stored. These are temporary structures, making construction skills an essential part of transmission.
Rope is used in nawa-garami timber connections
The frame assembled first at Kanko Hoko
Kanko Hoko’s construction account begins with four posts, crossmembers and diagonal braces forming the frame. Workers wrap its joints with rope and tap the bindings with a wooden mallet so they fit the timber corners. The lashings join the members while allowing some resilience during movement. Raising the mast, adding the roof and furnishings, and fitting the wheels follow.
The labelled overview identifies the assembled float’s roof, mast, furnishings and working positions. Annual reconstruction also transmits skills within that decorated exterior: fitting the wooden frame and its bindings.
Kanko Hoko’s official labelled overview of the roof, mast, furnishings and working positions. Source
Tsuji-mawashi at an intersection
For a large float’s turn, split bamboo is laid beneath the wheels and wetted. Teams coordinate their ropes to change direction in stages: tsuji-mawashi. It is a coordinated operation involving wheels, bamboo, water and people.
An illustrative large wooden wheelSplit bamboo is used under wheels during tsuji-mawashi
Turning a float with fixed wheels
Kanko Hoko’s booklet explains that all four wheels have fixed directions: they cannot swivel like a car’s front wheels. Attendants lay split bamboo ahead of the front wheels, wet it and move those wheels onto it. A sideways rope pull then slides the front of the float, changing its direction in stages.
Wheel attendants meanwhile restrain the left rear wheel with a dedicated tool and watch for displaced bamboo. Forward pulling alone is insufficient. Laying bamboo, wetting it, pulling sideways and controlling the rear wheel must be coordinated. The booklet photographs show work beside a wheel and preparation of the bamboo.
Two photographs in Kanko Hoko’s booklet: work beside a wheel and preparation of split bamboo. Source
Different work around the float
Pullers move the float, while wheel attendants and other workers handle movement around it. Roof workers attend to overhead conditions. Turning through city intersections depends on coordinated roles rather than an undifferentiated group pulling together.
Work between processions
A preservation-group participant describes checking damage after the festival, arranging repairs and funding, then meetings, amulets, insurance and staffing. Maintenance, practice and organization continue well beyond a day’s procession. Yagi also describes students, people from outside Kyoto and foreign participants contributing to pulling and support work in the modern procession.
Growth, neighbourhoods and rebuilding
Earlier rites and later floats
The festival’s traditional origin is linked to prayers against epidemic disease in 869. Today’s large floats did not remain unchanged from that date. Kyoto’s historical account describes decorated poles and swords in the Kamakura period and larger forms documented in the fourteenth century.
Expansion in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries
A diary entry for 1376 records procession activity and an accident involving a tall hoko. Floats multiplied during the fifteenth century before interruption with the Ōnin War from 1467. The economic and organizational activities of townspeople are part of this development.
Revival in 1500
The floats returned in 1500, with two processions recorded in Gion-shaki. Neighbourhood organization and supporting yori-machi developed through the Momoyama and early Edo periods. Festival screens preserve images of these large processions and their urban audiences.
Part of Gion Festival Screens, first half of the seventeenth century; Kyoto National Museum.Source
A request recorded in 1533
Umebayashi Hideyuki’s 2024 handout transcribes a 1533 Gion diary entry in which lower-city representatives requested float passage even without the shrine rites. The recorded request shows their attachment to the procession; it is evidence of what they sought, rather than a report of the completed event.
Rebuilding after fires
The Hōei, Tenmei and Genji fires damaged floats during the Edo period. Neighbourhoods repaired or revived them, while furnishings accumulated through donations, production and preservation. A surviving float can contain components and work from different periods.
Funding and dates in Meiji
The abolition of yori-machi in 1872 challenged funding, followed by the Seisei Kōsha support organization in 1875. Calendar changes led to processions on 17 and 24 July from 1877, and a neighbourhood federation formed in 1923. Continuation required new institutional support.
Wartime interruption and gradual return
The procession stopped during the war in 1943. Naginata and Tsuki floats were erected again in 1947, but only Naginata processed. Other floats returned in stages rather than the entire procession being restored at once.
Combining and separating the processions
The two processions were combined on the seventeenth in 1966. In 2014 the Ato-matsuri procession on the twenty-fourth returned. The familiar two-part arrangement is both historically grounded and shaped by modern changes.
Interruption and return in 2020–2022
Neither the float nor mikoshi processions took place in 2020 and 2021, though substitute rites continued and some floats were erected in 2021. Processions returned in 2022. The gap affected opportunities to practise temporary construction and turning skills as well as public viewing.
Safeguarding a living practice
The float events received Japan’s Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property designation in 1979 and UNESCO representative-list inscription in 2009. In 2016 they became part of the expanded Yama, Hoko, Yatai, float festivals inscription. The practice encompasses procession, music and neighbourhood organization, alongside the physical floats and furnishings.
Check your understanding
Is the float procession the whole Gion Festival?
No. It is the float event, distinct from mikoshi movement and other rites.
What materials help a large float turn?
Split bamboo and water under the wheels, with coordinated rope work.
Is every position determined by drawing lots?
No. Some floats have fixed positions.
Did every float return to the procession in 1947?
No. Only Naginata processed that year.
Did the absence of processions in 2020–2021 mean all rites ceased?
No. Substitute rites and other activities continued.
How are Kanko Hoko’s frame and rope bindings assembled?
Four posts, crossmembers and braces form the frame; joints are rope-wrapped and tapped tight before further components are fitted.
How does Kanko Hoko turn when its four wheels have fixed directions?
Its front wheels move onto wetted bamboo and sideways rope pulls slide the front, while attendants restrain the left rear wheel and watch the bamboo.