Illustrated Japanese Culture

Bento: a meal packed to go

弁当

Bento is a meal arranged in a box for carrying or individual serving. It may be made at home, bought ready to eat or served at a restaurant. Rice and side dishes are common, but bento names describe many different menus, containers and occasions.

A contemporary Shōkadō bento uses four compartments for different dishes and vessels.
A way of packing and serving a mealWhat it describes
Home kitchens, shops and caterersWhere it comes from
Makunouchi and ShōkadōTwo distinct styles

01

What goes into a bento?

Rice and side dishes in one box

A complete meal in a compact space

Rice often sits beside several cooked side dishes. Rice balls, sushi and other main foods also appear. Small cups and dividers keep different foods apart. There is no compulsory menu or fixed proportion shared by every bento.

Work, outings and restaurant tables

People carry bento to work, on trips and to outdoor gatherings; shops also sell meals for eating at home. Some schools use packed lunches on particular days, while others provide school meals. A restaurant can serve a boxed meal at the table, so being carried away is not essential.

02

Portable food before the modern lunchbox

Rice balls are portable

The illustration shows rice balls; early travellers also carried dried cooked rice.

Dried rice and rice balls

Travellers carried food long before the modern bento box. The Tales of Ise, compiled around the tenth century, includes dried cooked rice taken on a journey. Rice balls offered another portable form.

The entry for Bento in the Japanese–Portuguese dictionary.

The name was in use by the early 1600s

An early-seventeenth-century Japanese–Portuguese dictionary records the word bento. The term was therefore in use before the later spread of elaborate picnic sets and railway meals.

Agricultural work and an outdoor meal in Edo meisho zue.
An eighteenth-century picnic set combines food containers and a sake vessel.

Edo outings could involve elaborate equipment

Travel, flower viewing and theatre outings helped expand the uses of bento in the Edo period. Wealthy users could carry lacquer picnic sets called sagejū, with stacked food boxes, sake containers and dishes. The eighteenth-century set shown here is one such luxury object.

Utagawa Toyokuni, Inside and Outside the Nakamura Theatre, 1817.

A theatre association survives in the name

Makunouchi is associated with food eaten between acts. Edo descriptions show rice portions accompanied by cooked side dishes. Today the name generally suggests an assortment of rice and accompaniments.

03

Rail travel adds the ekiben

A Meiji-period ekiben wrapper from the Kyoto Railway Museum collection.

Station meals grow with the railways

Ekiben combines eki, station, with bento. Station meals developed as rail travel expanded in the Meiji era. Utsunomiya in 1885 is a familiar origin story, but earlier Osaka, Kobe and Ueno claims also exist. The first station and date remain disputed.

A prewar ekiben wrapper from the Kyoto Railway Museum collection.

Local food and memorable wrapping

Regional specialties gave station meals identities of their own. Their printed wrappers also became part of the experience, carrying place names, food descriptions and illustrations.

04

Why Shōkadō has four compartments

A cross-divider makes four compartments

An artist’s box becomes a serving vessel

In the early Shōwa period, the founder of Kitchō adapted a four-part box associated with the seventeenth-century artist Shōkadō Shōjō. The food version was smaller, with higher sides and a lid. The modern meal was developed much later than the man whose name it carries.

The cross keeps dishes separate

A cross-shaped divider gives Shōkadō bento four compartments, allowing several dishes to be arranged without mixing. It can be served at tea gatherings or formal meals. Makunouchi names a different meal tradition; the two terms are not interchangeable.

05

New containers and new ways of buying

  1. Wartime shortages: substitute ingredients in meals
  2. After the war: school meals expand; home-packed meals continue in other settings

Wartime shortages and postwar school meals

Wartime food shortages brought substitute foods into packed meals. After the war, the expansion of school meals reduced the occasions when many pupils needed a bento, while workers continued to carry them.

  1. Wood and woven bamboo or willow: traditional containers
  2. Metal and plastic: other container choices
  3. Sealing, insulation and heating suitability depend on the product

Wood, metal, plastic and insulated vessels

Bentwood, woven bamboo and metal containers coexist with plastic and insulated products. A sealed lid or a container that can be heated in a microwave is a product feature, not something every bento box offers. Follow the instructions for the particular box.

  1. Mid-1960s–early 1970s: insulated jar-style containers appear
  2. Mid-1970s–early 1980s: takeout shops and convenience-store meals expand

A larger market for ready-made meals

Insulated jar-style meal containers appeared from the mid-1960s into the early 1970s. From the mid-1970s into the early 1980s, takeout shops and microwave-heated convenience-store meals expanded. Hokka Hokka Tei opened its first shop in 1976. Buying a bento and preparing one at home remain parallel choices.

  1. Nori bento: named for an ingredient
  2. Ekiben: named for its railway setting
  3. Kyaraben: named for character-shaped food

Names can describe different things

Nori bento refers to a meal featuring seaweed over rice; kyaraben refers to food arranged as characters or pictures. Other names identify a shop, region or container. These categories overlap, and decorative character food is only one optional style.

A round aluminium lunchbox used by Taiwan Railways.

Local histories continue beyond Japan

Bento has attracted interest overseas and taken different local forms. A postwar Taiwan Railway aluminium meal box, for example, records another railway-meal tradition. Its return markings also show that this was reusable equipment.

06

Packing food for later

A cold pack helps keep food cool in transit

Cool heated food before closing the box, remove excess moisture, keep it cool in transit and eat promptly.

Cool the food, then keep the meal cool

Japan’s agriculture ministry advises clean hands, utensils and boxes; thorough heating; and reheating leftovers before packing. Let cooked food cool before closing the box, remove excess moisture and keep the meal cool. For longer carrying, use an insulated bag and cold pack, and eat promptly.

What can you now explain?

Is bento a single recipe?

No. It describes a packed or individually boxed meal, with many possible menus and occasions.

What did travellers carry before modern bento boxes?

Dried cooked rice and rice balls were among the portable foods.

What was a sagejū?

An elaborate portable picnic set that could include stacked food boxes, sake containers and dishes.

How is makunouchi linked to theatre?

Its history is associated with meals eaten between acts.

Was Utsunomiya definitely the first place to sell ekiben?

No. The 1885 account is well known, but earlier station claims exist.

What distinguishes a Shōkadō box?

A cross-shaped divider creates four compartments.

Did Shōkadō Shōjō invent the modern meal?

No. The meal was developed in the early Shōwa period using a box associated with him.

Does every bento need character-shaped food?

No. Kyaraben is one optional way of arranging it.

What should be checked before heating a bento box?

Whether that specific container is suitable for the intended heating method.

What are the basic precautions when packing for later?

Use clean equipment, heat food properly, cool it before closing, keep the packed meal cool and eat promptly.

Sources and images
  1. Kids Web Japan: history of bento
  2. Kids Web Japan: bento in daily life
  3. Kids Web Japan: bento boxes
  4. Shokado Garden and Art Museum: origins of Shokado bento
  5. MAFF: historical outing meals
  6. Agency for Cultural Affairs: history of ekiben
  7. The Met: Portable Picnic Set with Chrysanthemum Sprays, 18th century
  8. Plenus Rice Culture Institute: bento library
  9. MAFF: Washoku culture training textbook
  10. MAFF: preventing food poisoning when making bento
  11. National Museum of Taiwan History: aluminium railway meal box
  12. JR East:駅弁とは
  13. MAFF: history of eating out
  14. A contemporary Shōkadō bento uses four compartments for different dishes and vessels.